Saturday 7^th May 2022:

4 SCC members headed south from Winchmore Hill at an ungodly 4.30 am in a VW Sharan for the 500 mile journey to the little known region of Franche-Comté. The 4 bikes (with front wheel’s removed) fitted neatly into the vehicle with plenty of space for bags and riders

Steve Westcough and Duncan Connolly’s planning and driving ensured  Mike Lees and Steve Brink had only to watch the French scenery unfold and we arrived as planned at 5pm in Besançon to experience the first of two Saturday nights in by far the most prosperous place we were to visit. On both Saturdays we dined in the centre of this unspoilt and attractive city. Besançon is blessed with a wide range of eateries.

DAY 1: Besançon to Arbois, 61km, 511 meter climb.

This is a self supported holiday so every morning we installed our carriers on the bikes – two Topeaks, a Carradice Super C and an Apidura. Some required more of a stretch than others to “get your leg over when monter le vélo”.

Duncan’s Super C supported two French baguettess and Steve W stored the daily ripening Camembert in his trainers atop the Topeak. With additions of ham and tomatoes from Mike and Steve B , the daily lunch was well looked after.

It was the 8^th May, Victory in Europe Day, so a national holiday. We set off   along the river Doub for a warm Sunday ride that took in a visit to Arc-et-Senans (Royal Salt Works) built just before the French Revolution in eccentric architectural style. This was the easiest cycling day, and knowing what was coming we were glad for the short day. A quick visit to the Musée de vin du Jura, which mainly consisted of old farming tools and a few dusty barrels, before dinner. We did feel we should sample the unique ten year wine making process of their  15% proof Vin Jaune . We ordered a bottle. It didn’t go down well at all , tasting on the bitter side of a very dry Sherry but it would have been rude not to finish it!  After that it was more familiar wines and beers for the remainder of the trip.The hotel had made up double beds rather than twins, fortunately they remedied this, even so Steve B and Duncan competed in the snoring stakes, maybe induced by the Vin Jaune?

DAY 2:Arbois - Nozeroy (Longcochon), 84km, 1332 meter climb

Originally a 70 km day, we started the day with a detour to Cascade des Tufs

The cascade name gave us a clue for this tough Monday ride; as soon as we’d gone up a hill another one arrived but never boring – it was all day in mountains and forests before about 10K from our destination there was a heavy afternoon storm and we arrived at Auberge Loisirs Le Sillet a little soaked and cold. Fortunately we had a rousing welcome from la Madame who soon has us warmed up – we could have  signed up for discovering the Jura on horseback as the Auberge was an equestrian centre. A hearty supper of local fayre with some excellent Arbois chardonnay and a game of cards rounded off a great day in the Jura

DAY 3: Longcochon to Malbuisson 71 km, 1035 meter climb (Duncan 1235 meters), including afternoon diversion to Mt D’Or, summit 1464 meters

Because of the previous day’s rain we had to miss a visit to Nozeroy as most of us wanted to avoid a diversion and ensure good legs for today’s afternoon excursion. Duncan diverted to Côte de Bonnevaux while the other three of us relaxed in the nearby French villages. After circumnavigating Lac de St Point we arrived at the 4**** Les Rives Sauvages – such unbelievable luxury we could have brought the wives. After a rapid cafe and cake we accepted the challenge of Mt D’Or. To a greater or lesser extent all four of us had to accept our vulnerability – the preliminary 4km averaged 10% and from the mountain farmhouse the last km averaged 13.5%. But a view east to the Swiss Alps made it all worthwhile. We encountered fell runners up there, and also a students’ geography excursion. But like most days, no English visitors. A brake burning descent to the spa to enjoyed the incidentals – sauna and steam, pool, yoga and doze. Then to dinner in nearby Restaurant Du Fromage for tartiflette, a delicious regional dish. Much discussion on gear ratios over ample grape and grain.

DAY 4: Malbuisson to Bonlieu 68 km, 572 meter climb

The Les Rives Sauvages (The Wild Shore) continued to be the spa that just kept on giving. Daybreak on the lake was shrouded in mysterious waves of mist with birds encircling, and ducks descending. The view from the breakfast room was a feast for the imagination. By 10am the mist had cleared and it was time to head south-west along a Jura ridge.

We today cycled on the top of these ridges through Jura pastures including a flattish stretch of 20 km at around 1000 meters. Hamlets and villages came into and out of view as we made our way seeing goats, ponies and horses in open meadows and ever steepling valleys. A small diversion took us to the ski village of Chaux-Neuve, where 75% of us who were skiing cyclists visualised ambitious ski jumps

We descended to 500 meters and passed the stunning lac de Bonlieu and the Cascades du Hérisson. On arrival in Bonlieu there was an animated discussion of whether we were staying in a one horse or zero horse town as no shop or restaurant existed anymore. But once again the Jura surprised us as we were booked into the EntoutesSaisons , a kind of gîte in the small town. It was magnificently laid out and the owner Patrick showed us his immaculately restored 2CV. Meanwhile Duncan was concerned about the location for the boulangerie and as the town had no shop Patrick suggested a choice of nearby towns – as a detour was required we quizzed which detour was the flattest terrain – he gave Duncan a deep stare, shrugged his shoulders, opened his palms and explained “ici le Jura”. Once you deviate off those ridges into the valleys, the roads get incredibly steep, something we were to find out the next day. To get dinner required a 8km round trip so we fitted lights and cycled out to the nearby Auberge du Hérisson. 

DAY 5: Bonlieu to St Claude 55 kms, 817 meter climb

Straight after breakfast started on a 5 km 300 meter climb to the top of Col de la Joux. As we arrived a tad short of breath, we were greeted by the extra ordinary sight of a young couple who had popped up on a heavily loaded mountain bike and cargo bike with a two year old child in it. And we thought our luggage was heavy. We found ourselves in the Parc Naturel, with stunning views on either side, with paths dropping down into steep gorges. These paths proved an irresistible enticement to Duncan to take the scenic valley route to our destination, St.Claude. Rather than riding the Jura ridge we descended 400 meters in 8 kms of twisting gravel road. Hope we don’t have to do this in reverse after enjoying a good lunch by a mill; fortunately it was less than 100 meters or “Diversion Duncan” would  have needed to seek forgiveness for his detour.  St Claude is the most extraordinary town – built into the valley walls, the former centre of diamond mining and smoking pipe manufacturing felt run down and dependent on tourism. We were checked into a hotel with an excellent restaurant who provided us a category one dinner in a rather splendid room with stunning views up the valley to the mountains all around.

DAY 6: Morning St Claude to Bellegarde, 87 kms, 1644 meter climb  including afternoon diversion  to Barrage de Genissiat 

There was no room for error on departing St Claude: an incorrect route would cost us 100s of meters of unnecessary climb but Steve W sorted the route out of the valley. The cool and early start allowed the 800 meter double chevron 15 km climb to be almost pleasurable. We were back at 1200 meters. This was Mike’s last day as he needed to get to Geneva for a flight back to London for a wedding the following day. So Steve B and Mike put the hammer down to reach Bellegarde by shortly after noon to make Mike’s train connection. We had lunch in the square and after farewells the three of us headed out again to visit the nearby Barrage de Genissiat. For the evening we headed for a Bellegarde Pizziera, a change after nearly a week of rich French cooking

DAY 7: Final ride Bellegarde to Bourg-en-Bresse, 81 kms, 1101 meter climb

Steve W constructed the final route through stunning mountain scenery taking in more gorges, lakes and mountains. The French engineering projects have allowed extensive fast roads and railways to transverse this beautiful remote region but none of these bothered us on our village routes. We reached Bourg-en-Bresse in good time for the return train to Besançon where we enjoyed another Saturday night before picking up the VW Sharan for the return drive to England on Sunday 15^th May 2022. Anyone who loves France would love the Jura’s scenic beauty combined with historic interest and distinctive local cuisine and wine. The Jura opened up, so everyday was different. Excellent across the board accommodation and mostly sunny weather. The week was like a SCC “Spring Hilly” weekend ... on steroids. Duncan, who has visited France 5 times with his bike, rated this trip full of excellent contrasts. Two riders used Conti Four Seasons, one Gatorskins and one Swarbe Marathons. The usual excellent roads ensured less than one puncture over 7 days riding. Only 515 kms but plenty of endorphins achieved by over 7000 meters climbing.